Traditional recipes

Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista

Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista

Less than an hour west of Chicago sits Naperville, one of the largest cities in Illinois and home to the first LEED-certified hotel in the state: Hotel Arista. Even though this award-winning, four-diamond property is located near Centennial Beach, Naperville’s downtown Riverwalk, Arrowhead Golf Club, Chicago Premium Outlets, Dupage Children’s Museum, and the lovely Morton Arboretum, you can actually stay the night without ever having to leave the CityGate Centre business and shopping complex.

Feast

SugarToad has an excellent breakfast list of options — you can expect all of your favorites to be on the menu here: skillets, omelets, frittatas, yogurt, oatmeal, waffles, and pancakes. Enjoy your breakfast on the lovely outdoor patio with an espresso in hand.

The Zorba Lounge offers much more interesting noshes than your typical bar menu: smoked salmon flatbread; taleggio and white truffle arancini with charred asparagus and balsamic glaze; and tempura fried vegetables with garlic aïoli, tamari, ginger, and honey sauce. Sit by the fire and enjoy a craft beer or barrel-aged beverage in this swanky, well-lit space.

And, just across the way via foot or shuttle sits Citygate Grille, an American restaurant with Mediterranean influences. The sleek interior and soft lighting, as well as the live jazz music, set the scene for a piquant meal. Buttermilk calamari, steak, fish, and vegetarian options like lasagna, gnocchi, and stuffed eggplant are popular choices on the nightly menu here. Family picks — “a devoted Greek son’s favorite recipes from mom,” according to the menu — are listed in the “Papou’s Corner” section: CityGate moussaka and CityGate pastitsio, for example.

Unwind

And, who doesn’t love a bespoke spa treatment or skin care service? Arista Spa & Salon, which sticks with the Mediterranean theme that you see throughout Hotel Arista, offers spa-goers a personalized aromatherapy experience. Guests can choose their own signature essential oil combination for the aromatherapy massage and then bring home the extra oil. Innovative businesswoman and spa creator Mae Calamos has calculated a space utilizing Mediterranean healing practices and modern advancements in science to offer the best possible services for your hair, body and skin. Fun fact: Calamos is also the visionary behind CityGate Grille.

Play

Finally, before checking out, visit Tap In Pub & Carvery for some casual sports-centric fun and American fried and grilled comfort fare. While taking turns playing a variety of games on the high-definition golf simulators (there are even games and clubs designed for kids), chow on fully loaded nachos and potato skins; a giant Milwaukee German pretzel; fried Ellsworth Dairy cheese curds; sliders; sandwiches; burgers; tacos; or, my favorite, fried donuts with salted caramel, strawberry, and chocolate sauces.


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Lavish, Luxury, and Locally-Owned: Hotel Arista - Recipes

WHY GO NOW France's second-largest metropolitan area, Lyon has many of the same charms as Paris: great opera, chic shops, river cruises, world-class museums and even a tall, 1893 metal structure that looks like the Eiffel Tower. But Lyon is older than Paris, has more Roman ruins and, as local residents will tell you, better food.

Over the last 15 years, Lyon has restored and replanted some 100 public spaces. The warehouses along the River Saône have been transformed into galleries for the Biennial of Contemporary Art. A flying-saucer-shaped amphitheater, designed by Renzo Piano, just opened at his Lyon Convention Center. And culturally, the city is bursting with festivals and concerts.

The Nuits de Fourvière, one of Europe's oldest summer festivals, is presenting music, drama and film in two of the city's 2,000-year-old Roman theaters through Aug. 4. In September, the focus turns to dance, as performers from around the world, including the Egyptian Modern Dance Company, celebrate Lyon's Biennale de la Danse. In other words, while the French capital thinks it achieved perfection sometime in the 19th century, Lyon is still trying to get there.

WHERE TO STAY Travelers who want to live like Lyon's 16th-century silk merchants should head to the cobblestone streets of the old city, Vieux Lyon, a Unesco World Heritage site, where almost 300 Renaissance mansions still stand. Four of these grand residences now make up the Cour des Loges (2-8, rue du Boeuf 33-4-72-77-44-44 www.courdesloges.com). This lavish hotel, dating from the 14th to the 17th centuries, features an elegant courtyard and 62 rooms, some with fireplaces and timbered ceilings. Rooms start at 230 euros ($297 at $1.29 to the euro), though special rates can be found through the hotel's Web site.

Another ancient gem, the Villa Florentine, situated halfway up the Fourvière hill, was once a nunnery (25, montée St.-Barthélémy 33-4-72-56-56-56 www.villaflorentine.com). But asceticism has given way to luxury, with amazing views of the city, particularly from the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon. Official rates for the 28 rooms start at 195 euros.

If not a stay in a former convent, how about reliving your school days? The 39-room Collège hotel (5, Place St.-Paul, 33-4-72-10-05-05, www.college-hotel.com) has classroomlike tables in the breakfast "study hall" and rates listed by academic levels: 105 euros for the all-white "undergraduate" room to 140 for a larger "postgraduate" unit with an A-plus view of the city.

Many hotels are clustered on Presqu'île, the peninsula formed by the Saône and Rhône Rivers. Among the best are the 53-room Grand Hôtel des Terreaux (16, rue Lanterne 33-4-78-27-04-10 www.hotel-lyon.fr), which has an indoor pool and spacious doubles from 115 euros, and the modern 161-room Sofitel Bellecour (20, quai Gailleton 33-4-72-41-20-20 www.sofitel.com), which has a one-star restaurant, Les Trois Dômes, overlooking the Rhône, and doubles from 275 euros (though specials can be less).

WHERE TO EAT The best reason to visit Lyon is the food. If you can't trek a few miles north of downtown to the Michelin three-star Paul Bocuse (40, quai de la Plage, Pont de Collonges, 33-4-72-42-90-90 www.bocuse.fr), where four-course dinners start at 115 euros, you can sample Mr. Bocuse's simpler fare at one of five Brasseries Bocuse in Lyon. Try Lɾst at the Brotteaux railroad station (33-4-37-24-25-26) for its spit-roasted Bresse chicken (19 euros) and choo-choo train décor.

Lyon has a fair share of creative younger chefs, too. Among them is Alain Alexanian, who spices up quenelles (pike dumplings) with paprika and embeurrée de pommes de terre (buttery potatoes) with chicory, at Lɺlexandrin (83, rue Moncey 33-4-72-61-15-69 www.lalexandrin.com). A six-course Mode de Lyon menu is 60 euros.

Nicolas Le Bec, 34, the youngest of this new breed, pairs fresh ingredients in novel ways at his eponymous restaurant (14, rue Grolée 33-4-78-42-15-00 nicolaslebec.com). The 48-euro prix fixe lunch might include stuffed zucchini flower and turbot with artichokes in eucalyptus broth.

For something cheaper but no less delicious, the charming Les Adrets (30, rue du Boeuf, 33-4-78-38-24-30) offers a three-course lunch including a lentil-and-foie-gras terrine for 14 euros, wine included.

For heartier fare, go to a bouchon — a Lyon institution that serves traditional fare like andouillete and boudin noir in a boisterous, informal setting. Be warned: lots of places call themselves bouchons but are really tourist traps. Some of the best can be found on the rue du Garet, including Garet (No. 7 33-4-78-28-16-94), Le Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, (No. 8 33-4-78-28-30-46) and Petit Flore (No. 19 33-4-78-27-27-51).

Another classic is La Meunière (11, rue Neuve, 33-4-78-28-62-91), where the potato salad is served from earthenware bowls, the sausages are cut to order and the four-course dinner is 24 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY The semisecret passageways called traboules, which date back to Roman times, will take you through gorgeous courtyards in the old city, with Italianate towers and spiral stairways. If you drop by the Romanesque-Gothic Cathédral St.-Jean at noon, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock do its coo-coo-like re-enactment of the Annunciation.

It's a steep walk up Fourvière hill to the dazzlingly white Notre Dame Basilica, which reigns over Lyon as Sacré Coeur does over Paris (but there's also a funicular). Nearby is the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization (17, rue Cléberg 33-4-72-38-49-30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com) for a quick archaeology lesson admission is 3.8 euros it is closed on Mondays.

On Presqu'île, the Museum of Textiles (34, rue de la Charité 33-4-78-38-42-00 www.musee-des-tissus.com) pays tribute to Lyon silk-making. Check out the green and rose tapestries that Marie Antoinette left behind in Versailles in 1789 (5 euros closed Mondays).

While Lyon's Beaux-Arts Museum (20, place des Terreaux, 33-4-72-10-17-40 6 euros) is justifiably proud of its "Ascension of Christ" by Perugino, don't miss the stairway murals by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, a Lyon-born painter whose work foreshadowed symbolism. Closed Tuesdays.

Two other favorite sons are Auguste and Louis Lumière, brothers who invented the cinématographe, a 19th-century precursor to the camcorder. Their groundbreaking movie "Leaving the Factory" is among many of their pioneering films shown at the Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film 33-4-78-78-18-95 www.institut-lumiere.org 6 euros). Closed Monday.

A less laudable character was Klaus Barbie, a k a the Butcher of Lyon. He was the SS commander responsible for the torture and death of thousands of French citizens, including the Resistance hero Jean Moulin. The somber Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation now occupies Barbie's Gestapo headquarters (14, avenue Berthelot, 33-4-78-72-23-11) 3.80 euros closed Monday and Tuesday.

WHERE TO SHOP Lyon is the birthplace of Guignol, the marionette that has been entertaining audiences for centuries. You can find him and a wide selection of his descendants, including a jolly French waiter that costs 290 euros, at Chez Disagn' Cardelli (6, rue St-Jean, 33-4-78-37-01-67). There are puppet shows, too. For older marionettes, dolls and wind-up toys, try Antic Dolls-Toys in one the antiques quarters (40, rue Auguste-Compte, 33-4-78-42-91-51).

From Lyon's candy department: pink pralines (almonds encased in uncaramelized sugar) and coussins (bite-size rectangles of almond paste filled with chocolate ganache). Voisin, a chocolatemaker with boutiques around town, created the coussins in 1960 to look like silk pillows. Another sweet stop is Chocolaterie Ginet (9, rue de la Charité, 33-4-78-42-09-82), run by the master chocolatier Thierry Dubruc.

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The smoky bars around the Hôtel de Ville, including Ayers Rock (2-4, rue Désirée, 33-8-20-32-02-03) and Albion Public House (12, rue Ste.-Catherine, 33-4-78-28-33-00), are popular with the T-shirt and jeans crowd. If your music tastes include hip-hop bands from Slovenia, head for La Fée Verte (4, rue Pizay, 33-4-78-28-32-35).

For an easy-going gay scene, try Cap Opéra around the corner from the Opéra (2, place Louis Pradel, 33-4-72-07-61-55). Across the Saône, dance clubs like Alibi (13, quai Romain Rolland, 33-4-78-42-04-66) attract a dressier crowd in their 20's and 30's. And in the summer, old riverboats become clubs along the banks of the Rhône.

YES, FREE For entertainment, the Romans headed for the hill, Fourvière. Make your own fun there today by clambering over the impressive ruins at Archeological Park. There's a large amphitheater (perhaps the oldest in France), a smaller Odéon (where the elite listened to speeches and music), and a spectacular view over the red-tiled roofs that seems to go on forever .

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Butchers, bakers, sausage makers and the occasional oyster bar line the aisles at La Halle de la Part-Dieu (102, cours Lafayette), the 1971 covered market where the city's best chefs are said to shop. At Maréchal, you can tell the goat cheeses from the cow-derived ones by the little animal pictured on the price tags. The super-luxury traiteur Rolle sells foie gras in amazing variations, including a tarte Tatin.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED All but the cheapest hotels have Internet access. But if you want to check your e-mail over a cup of exotic tea, head for Le Mundo Café in the travel bookstore Raconte-Moi la Terre (38, rue Thomassin 33-4-78-92-60-20 www.raconte-moi.com ). Thirty minutes cost 2.50 euros.

GETTING THERE A number of airlines fly from Kennedy International to Lyon through various European hubs. A recent Web seach found round-trip fares from about $920 The high-speed TGV train can also zip you from Paris to Lyon in about two hours (from 110 euros round trip).


Watch the video: Burj Al Arab (September 2021).